You've received the invitation. The venue looks incredible. The date is set. Then you see it at the bottom of the card: "Black Tie" or "Cocktail Attire." And suddenly, you're second-guessing everything in your closet.
Dress codes aren't meant to confuse you: they're actually a helpful guide to ensure everyone shows up appropriately dressed for the occasion. But after five decades in the men's formalwear business, we've seen plenty of guys show up in the wrong outfit simply because they didn't understand the distinctions.
Let's clear up the confusion once and for all. Whether you're attending a formal gala, a wedding, or an evening cocktail party, this guide will help you understand what's expected: and how to nail the look.
Black Tie: The Gold Standard of Formal Wear
Black tie is as formal as it gets for most events (short of white tie, which you'll rarely encounter). When an invitation specifies black tie, the expectation is clear: you need a tuxedo.
What to Wear
A proper black tie ensemble includes:
- A black tuxedo jacket with satin or grosgrain lapels (peak or shawl collar preferred)
- Matching tuxedo trousers with a satin stripe down the leg
- A formal white dress shirt with a turn-down collar or wing collar
- A black bow tie (silk, satin, or grosgrain: never pre-tied if you can help it)
- Black patent leather shoes or highly polished oxfords
- A black cummerbund or vest to cover the trouser waistband
- Optional accessories: cufflinks, studs, and a pocket square
When You'll See It
Black tie is reserved for evening events that demand elegance: charity galas, award ceremonies, operas, formal weddings, and milestone celebrations. If the event starts after 6 PM and the invitation says black tie, don't take shortcuts.
The Fit Factor
Here's where many men go wrong: renting a tuxedo that doesn't fit properly. An ill-fitting tux is worse than showing up slightly underdressed. The jacket should sit perfectly on your shoulders, the trouser break should be clean, and the shirt shouldn't pull or gap. At 700 Shop, our on-site tailoring services ensure your tuxedo rental fits like it was made for you: because when it comes to black tie, fit is everything.
Formal / Black Tie Optional: Flexibility Meets Elegance
"Black Tie Optional" or simply "Formal" is the middle ground: a dress code that gives you options while maintaining a high level of sophistication.
What to Wear
This dress code offers flexibility:
Option 1: The Tuxedo
You can absolutely wear a tuxedo to a black tie optional event. You won't be overdressed: in fact, you'll look sharp and intentional.
Option 2: A Dark Suit
A well-tailored dark suit in charcoal, navy, or black is perfectly acceptable. Pair it with:
- A crisp white or light-colored dress shirt
- A conservative silk tie (solid or subtle pattern)
- Polished leather dress shoes (oxfords or derbies)
- A leather belt that matches your shoes
- Optional: a pocket square for extra polish
When You'll See It
Formal or black tie optional dress codes are common at evening weddings, upscale dinner parties, corporate galas, and sophisticated celebrations where the hosts want guests to feel elegant but not restricted by strict black tie requirements.
The Strategic Choice
Not sure whether to go tuxedo or suit? Consider the venue and time. A ballroom wedding at 7 PM? Lean toward the tuxedo. A formal dinner at a private club? A sharp dark suit will serve you well. When in doubt, it's better to be slightly overdressed than underdressed.
Cocktail Attire: Polished and Personal
Cocktail attire is where formal meets approachable. It's a step down from black tie optional but still requires you to look sharp and intentional.
What to Wear
For cocktail events, the formula is straightforward:
- A suit in navy, charcoal, grey, or even lighter colors depending on the season
- A dress shirt in white, light blue, or a subtle pattern
- A tie (though some modern cocktail events allow you to skip it: gauge the formality)
- Leather dress shoes that are clean and polished
- A matching belt
Cocktail attire gives you more room for personality. You can experiment with texture, patterns, and color in ways you couldn't with black tie. A windowpane check suit, a burgundy tie, or a statement pocket square are all fair game: as long as the overall look remains polished.
When You'll See It
Cocktail dress codes appear at evening weddings, rehearsal dinners, cocktail parties (obviously), corporate events, and social gatherings where the vibe is celebratory but not overly formal. These events typically start in the late afternoon or evening and may include dancing, mingling, and drinks.
The Color Consideration
Unlike black tie (which is always black), cocktail attire allows for seasonal color choices. Navy and charcoal work year-round. Lighter greys, tans, and even summer-weight fabrics are appropriate for daytime or warm-weather cocktail events.
Quick Reference Guide
Still not sure? Here's a simple breakdown:
| Dress Code | Formality Level | What to Wear | When You'll See It |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black Tie | Most Formal | Tuxedo required | Evening galas, formal weddings, opera |
| Formal / Black Tie Optional | Very Formal | Tuxedo or dark suit | Evening weddings, upscale events |
| Cocktail Attire | Semi-Formal | Suit and tie | Evening parties, social celebrations |
Common Mistakes to Avoid
After 50+ years in the formalwear business, we've seen these mistakes more times than we can count:
1. Wearing a suit to a black tie event
Unless the invitation explicitly says "optional," a suit isn't appropriate for black tie. If you don't own a tuxedo, rent one. It's worth it.
2. Over-accessorizing cocktail attire
A pocket square and nice watch are sufficient. Leave the flashy cufflinks and tie bars for another occasion.
3. Ignoring the time of day
Black tie is for evening events. If the wedding starts at 2 PM, it's likely not black tie: even if it feels formal.
4. Skipping tailoring
An inexpensive suit that fits perfectly will always look better than an expensive suit that doesn't. Our on-site tailoring ensures every piece: whether you're buying or renting: fits your body exactly as it should.
5. Wearing the wrong shoes
Sneakers, loafers, and casual boots have no place at formal or cocktail events. Invest in quality leather dress shoes and keep them polished.
Why Fit Matters More Than the Dress Code
Here's the truth: you can follow the dress code perfectly and still look off if your clothes don't fit properly. A too-long trouser, a tight shoulder, or a gaping shirt collar can undermine an otherwise appropriate outfit.
That's why fit is our obsession at 700 Shop. Whether you're renting a tuxedo for a one-time event or investing in suits for men that will serve you for years, our team ensures every garment is tailored to your exact measurements. We've been perfecting this craft for more than 50 years, and we've learned that the difference between looking "fine" and looking exceptional often comes down to a quarter-inch adjustment here or there.
The Bottom Line
Understanding dress codes isn't about memorizing arbitrary rules: it's about showing respect for the event, the hosts, and the occasion. When you dress appropriately, you signal that you care enough to make an effort. And when your clothes fit impeccably, you carry yourself with a confidence that's impossible to fake.
Need help preparing for your next formal event? Stop by 700 Shop and let our team guide you through the process. Whether you need a tuxedo rental, a perfectly tailored suit, or advice on what to wear, we've got five decades of experience to back it up: and on-site tailoring to make sure you look your absolute best.
Because at the end of the day, the right outfit isn't just about following a dress code. It's about feeling confident, looking sharp, and making the kind of impression that lasts long after the event ends.