When it comes to mens suits, there is a massive difference between wearing a suit and wearing a suit that fits. If you’ve ever scrolled through style forums or Reddit’s fashion communities, you know the internet is a goldmine of guys trying to figure out the same thing: how to look like a professional and not like they’re wearing their dad’s hand-me-downs.
At 700 Shop, we’ve spent over 60 years helping men in Indiana, PA, master the art of the perfect fit. We know that the secret to a great suit isn't just the price tag: it’s the details. From knowing which buttons to fasten to understanding the "break" of your trousers, these small rules make the biggest impact.
Here are the five essential fit secrets every man needs to know to master suits for men.
1. The "Always, Never" Rule for Jacket Buttons
One of the most frequent questions we get is: "Which buttons do I actually fasten?" It might seem like a small detail, but buttoning the wrong one can throw off the entire silhouette of your jacket.
The Two-Button Jacket
Most modern mens suits, like our 700 Signature Classic Suit, feature a two-button design. The rule here is simple: Always, Never.
- Top Button: Always fastened when you are standing.
- Bottom Button: Never fastened. Ever.
Suit jackets are tailored with the assumption that the bottom button will remain open. Fastening it creates a "pull" across the hips and ruins the elegant "V" shape that a suit is designed to create.
The Three-Button Jacket
If you prefer a more traditional three-button look, the rule is: Sometimes, Always, Never.
- Top Button: Sometimes (it’s a style choice).
- Middle Button: Always (this is the anchor of the jacket).
- Bottom Button: Never.
Pro Tip: Regardless of the style, always unbutton your jacket completely when you sit down. This prevents the fabric from bunching up and keeps you (and your suit) looking sharp.
2. The Half-Inch Rule for Shirt Cuffs
A common mistake men make is having jacket sleeves that are too long, hiding the shirt underneath entirely. On the flip side, sleeves that are too short make the jacket look like it’s a size too small.
The "Goldilocks" zone for sleeve length is showing about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff beyond the jacket sleeve.
This small sliver of fabric acts as a frame for your hands and adds a layer of sophistication. If your shirt cuff is completely hidden, it usually means your jacket sleeves need a quick trip to our on-site tailoring shop. When your arms are hanging naturally at your sides, the jacket sleeve should hit right at your wrist bone, allowing the shirt to peek through.
3. Mastering the "Break" of Your Trousers
The "break" is the fold or wrinkle created when the bottom of your pants hits your shoes. This is where many guys get stuck between "too baggy" and "too short."
- No Break: The hem of the pants just barely touches the top of the shoe. This is a very modern, clean look that works exceptionally well with slim-fit styles like our 700 Signature Slim Poly-Blend Suit.
- Slight Break: The classic choice. The front of the hem lightly rests on the shoe, creating a single, subtle crease. This is the "safe" and most professional bet for any business or formal occasion.
- Full Break: This is when the fabric puddles around your ankles. Unless you’re going for a vintage 90s aesthetic, we generally recommend avoiding this as it can make you look shorter and a bit unkempt.
When you pair your trousers with a sharp pair of Upton Wingtips or Rucci Plain Oxfords, a slight break ensures the focus stays on your style, not your hems.
4. The Shoulder Test: The Foundation of Fit
If the shoulders don't fit, the suit doesn't fit. Unlike the waist or the sleeves, the shoulders of a suit jacket are incredibly difficult (and expensive) to alter. This is why it’s the first thing you should check when trying on custom suits for men.
The shoulder seam of the jacket should sit exactly where your natural shoulder bone ends and your arm begins.
- The Overhang: If the seam extends past your shoulder, creating a "divot" or a hollow space at the top of your arm, the jacket is too big.
- The Pull: If the seam sits closer to your neck and you feel a "pinch" when you move your arms, the jacket is too small.
A perfectly fitted shoulder should be flat and smooth. At 700 Shop, our expert consultants are trained to spot these fit issues immediately, ensuring you walk out with a jacket that feels like a second skin.
5. Tailoring: The Secret Weapon
The truth is, very few men are a perfect "off-the-rack" size. Whether you have broad shoulders and a slim waist, or you need a little extra room in the trousers, tailoring is what turns a good suit into a great one.
At 700 Shop, we don’t just sell you a suit and send you on your way. We offer on-site tailoring to ensure that every measurement: from the waist of your 700 Signature Class Fit Dress Pants to the length of your jacket: is perfect.
Putting It All Together
Understanding these rules takes the guesswork out of getting dressed. When you know the "Always, Never" rule for your buttons and you’ve dialed in your trouser break, you carry yourself with a different level of confidence.
Whether you are looking to buy one of our custom suits for men for a wedding or need a reliable business suit for the office, the team at 700 Shop is here to guide you. We carry a large inventory of sizes and styles, ensuring a one-stop experience where fashion truly meets fit.
Ready to upgrade your wardrobe? Stop by and let our expert consultants help you find the perfect fit.
Josh Rosenberger
Owner/President, 700 Shop
7th & Philadelphia St: Where Fashion Meets Fit