Let’s be honest: walk into any big-box department store, and you’ll see rows of suits for men that look great on the mannequin but feel like a costume once you put them on. Why? Because most clothing is designed for a "standard" body type that doesn't actually exist in the real world.
At 700 Shop, we’ve spent over 60 years helping guys in Indiana, PA, find the perfect fit. We know that whether you’re 5’5” or 6’5”, 150 lbs or 250 lbs, the secret to looking sharp isn't about following the latest trend: it’s about understanding your body’s proportions. A $5,000 suit will look cheap if it doesn't fit, but a well-tailored, affordable suit can make you look like a million bucks.
If you’ve ever felt "swallowed" by your blazer or worried that your trousers make you look shorter than you are, this guide is for you. Here is how to master mens formal wear for your specific build.
1. The Shorter Man: Creating Length and Height
For men with a shorter or more compact build, the primary goal is to create a long, unbroken vertical line. You want to guide the eye upward without any "visual interruptions" that cut your height in half.
The Fit Strategy:
- Monochromatic Schemes: Wearing a jacket and trousers in the same color (or very similar tones) creates a continuous silhouette. Avoid high-contrast belts that "slice" you at the waist.
- The "No-Break" Rule: When it comes to mens pants, avoid a heavy "break" (the wrinkle where the fabric hits the shoe). Too much fabric pooling at your ankles makes your legs look shorter. A "slight break" or "no break" hem is your best friend.
- Higher Button Stance: Look for jackets with a slightly higher button position. This visually raises your waistline, making your legs appear longer.
- Vertical Patterns: Subtle pinstripes are a classic for a reason: they literally draw the eye up and down.
2. The Broader Man: Streamlining the Frame
If you have a larger chest, broad shoulders, or a bit of weight around the midsection, your goal is to add structure without adding bulk. Many guys try to hide their size by wearing baggy clothes, but that actually makes you look larger and less "put together."
The Fit Strategy:
- Single-Breasted is King: Double-breasted jackets add extra layers of fabric across your stomach, which can look bulky. Stick to a single-breasted, two-button mens suit for a slimming V-taper.
- The Natural Waist: Wear your trousers at your natural waist (near the belly button) rather than under your stomach. This allows the fabric to drape smoothly over your frame instead of bunching up.
- Structured Shoulders: You need a jacket with a clean, defined shoulder line. This provides a frame for the rest of the suit to hang from, preventing a "rounded" look.
- Darker Tones: It’s a classic rule because it works. Navy, charcoal, and black are naturally slimming and perfect for any mens formal wear occasion.
3. The Slimmer Man: Building Visual Mass
On the flip side, thinner guys often struggle with looking "swallowed" by their clothes. If your suit looks like it’s wearing you rather than the other way around, you need to add some visual "weight" and dimension to your frame.
The Fit Strategy:
- Embrace Texture: Instead of flat, thin fabrics, go for materials with some "teeth." Think tweed, flannel, or heavy wool. These fabrics add physical and visual thickness.
- Master the Layer: One of the best ways to add bulk is through layering. A dress shirt paired with a v-neck sweater or a waistcoat under your suit jacket adds the perfect amount of mass.
- The "Slim" vs. "Skinny" Distinction: You want a slim fit that follows your body, but avoid "skinny" fits that emphasize how thin your limbs are. You want just enough room for the fabric to hang straight.
- Lighter Colors: While dark colors slim you down, lighter greys, tans, and blues can help you look a bit broader.
The Universal "Must-Haves" for Every Build
Regardless of your height or weight, there are three areas of a suit that must be perfect:
- The Shoulders: This is the most expensive part of a suit to alter. The seam should sit exactly where your shoulder bone ends. If it hangs over, the suit is too big; if it pulls, it's too small.
- The Sleeve Length: You should always show about half an inch of dress shirt cuff. This creates a polished, finished look.
- The Jacket Length: A good rule of thumb is that the jacket should cover your seat (your backside) and end roughly around the base of your thumb when your arms are at your sides.
Why "Off-the-Rack" Isn't Enough
Even the best-fitting ready-to-wear suit usually needs a little love from a tailor. That’s why at 700 Shop, we don’t just sell you a suit and send you on your way. We offer on-site tailoring to ensure that your purchase is dialed in perfectly for your specific proportions.
For those who want a truly one-of-a-kind experience, we specialize in custom suits for men. We carry prestigious brands like Hart Schaffner Marx and Jack Victor, offering made-to-measure options that allow you to choose everything from the fabric to the lining and the button style. When you go custom, "fit issues" become a thing of the past because the garment is built specifically for your measurements.
The 700 Shop Experience: Fashion Meets Fit
We’ve been Indiana’s go-to spot for menswear for over 60 years. We know that shopping for a suit can feel overwhelming, especially if you’re not sure what looks best on your body type. Our expert consultants are here to take the guesswork out of the process.
Whether you’re looking for a wedding tuxedo rental or investing in your first high-quality business suit, we have the inventory and the expertise to make sure you walk out the door feeling confident. We carry a massive range of sizes: from slim to big and tall: ensuring that every man has a "one-stop experience."
Stop by 7th & Philadelphia St and let us help you find your perfect fit.
Josh Rosenberger
Owner/President, 700 Shop
7th & Philadelphia St: Where Fashion Meets Fit