For many men, a dress shirt is simply a background player: a white or blue canvas designed to sit quietly under a suit jacket or blazer. But at 700 Shop, we know that the right shirt is actually the foundation of your entire look. A poorly fitted shirt can ruin a $1,000 suit, while a perfectly tailored one can make even a casual pair of chinos look like a million bucks.
Navigating the world of mens dress shirts can be overwhelming. Between "slim fit" and "extra slim," "spread collars" and "point collars," and a dizzying array of fabric weaves like broadcloth and oxford, it’s easy to just grab the first white shirt you see and hope for the best.
This guide is designed to take the guesswork out of the process. We’re going to compare the three pillars of a great shirt: fit, fabric, and style: so you can walk into any room with the confidence that comes from looking your best.
1. Nailing the Fit: The Golden Rule of Menswear
The most expensive shirt in the world will look terrible if it doesn't fit properly. Conversely, a modestly priced shirt that fits like it was made for you will always turn heads. When we talk about "fit" at 700 Shop, we look at three primary categories:
Slim Fit
The slim fit is the modern standard. It is designed to follow the natural contours of the body without being restrictive. It features higher armholes and a tapered waist to eliminate the "muffin top" effect of excess fabric billowing over your belt.
- Best For: Men with a lean or athletic build.
- Pro Tip: If you see "pulling" at the buttons when you stand naturally, it’s too tight.
Tailored (or Modern) Fit
This is the middle ground. It’s slimmer than a classic fit but offers more room than a true slim fit. It provides a clean, updated silhouette while allowing for a bit more comfort and range of motion.
- Best For: Most body types; it’s the most versatile fit for the average man.
Classic (or Regular) Fit
The classic fit is traditional. It features a boxier cut with plenty of room in the chest and waist. While it has fallen out of favor for formal fashion-forward looks, it remains a staple for men who prioritize comfort above all else or those with a fuller build.
- Best For: Men with larger frames or those who prefer a more traditional, relaxed feel.
The Fit Checklist
Regardless of the label on the tag, use these four markers to judge a shirt's fit:
- The Collar: You should be able to fit two fingers between your neck and the collar when buttoned.
- The Shoulders: The seam where the sleeve meets the body should sit right at the edge of your shoulder bone.
- The Sleeves: They should end right at the base of your thumb, allowing about half an inch of cuff to show when wearing a suit jacket.
- The Torso: You should be able to pinch 2-3 inches of fabric at the waist: no more, no less.
2. Fabric Fundamentals: The Texture of Quality
The "feel" of a shirt is determined by its weave. When shopping for mens dress shirts, you’ll encounter these three common fabrics:
Broadcloth (and Poplin)
Broadcloth is the quintessential dress shirt fabric. It is a tightly woven, plain-weave fabric with a very smooth surface and a slight sheen. It is thin, breathable, and looks exceptionally crisp when pressed.
- Best For: Highly formal occasions, weddings, and professional business settings.
Oxford Cloth
Oxford cloth is thicker and has a more visible, "basket-weave" texture. It is significantly more durable than broadcloth and has a matte finish. Because of its weight, it’s also naturally more wrinkle-resistant.
- Best For: Business casual environments, smart-casual date nights, and everyday wear.
Twill
Twill is easily identified by its diagonal ribbing (similar to denim but much finer). It is a heavier fabric that drapes beautifully and has a soft, silky feel. It’s also very easy to iron.
- Best For: When you want a bit of texture without moving into the casual territory of an Oxford.
3. Collar Styles: Framing Your Face
Your collar is the most visible part of your shirt when you’re wearing a jacket. It frames your face and sets the tone for your tie choice.
- Spread Collar: The points are spread further apart. This is a modern, sophisticated choice that looks best with a larger tie knot (like a Windsor).
- Point Collar: The points are closer together. This is a traditional, conservative choice that visually slims a rounder face. It works best with smaller tie knots.
- Button-Down Collar: The points are buttoned to the shirt body. This is inherently more casual and is the hallmark of the Oxford shirt. While it can be worn with a tie in a business-casual setting, it is generally avoided for formal events.
4. Choosing for the Occasion: A Comparison
Not all shirts are created equal. Here is how to match your shirt to the event:
| Feature | The Formal Wedding | The Corporate Boardroom | The Weekend Brunch |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fabric | Broadcloth / Poplin | Pinpoint or Twill | Oxford or Linen |
| Collar | Spread | Semi-Spread or Point | Button-Down |
| Cuff | French (Cufflinks) | Barrel (Buttons) | Barrel (Rolled up) |
| Color/Pattern | Solid White | Light Blue or Subtle Stripe | Plaid or Bold Pattern |
For those looking for a versatile option that works for both office and evening, a light blue plaid or striped shirt is an excellent choice. It bridges the gap between formal and approachable.
5. The 700 Shop Difference: Expert Fitting and Selection
At 700 Shop, we’ve spent over 60 years helping men in Indiana, PA, find their perfect fit. We understand that every body is different, and a "medium" in one brand might fit like a "large" in another.
When you visit us at 7th & Philadelphia St, you aren't just picking a shirt off a rack. You’re getting:
- Expert Consultation: Our team knows how to measure for your neck, sleeve, and torso to ensure a perfect silhouette.
- On-Site Tailoring: If a shirt is almost perfect but needs a little nip at the waist or a shortening of the sleeves, our expert tailors handle it right here.
- Unrivaled Selection: From crisp white formal shirts to casual short-sleeve pinstripes for the summer, we carry sizes and styles for every man.
Conclusion
Finding the best mens dress shirts doesn't have to be a chore. By focusing on a fit that complements your build, a fabric that suits the season, and a collar that matches the occasion, you can build a wardrobe that works for you.
Remember, the shirt is the foundation. Start with a white broadcloth for formality, a blue Oxford for versatility, and a few subtle patterns for personality. And if you’re ever in doubt about the fit, come see us at 700 Shop: where fashion meets fit.
Josh Rosenberger
Owner/President, 700 Shop
7th & Philadelphia St: Where Fashion Meets Fit